Sanlúcar, Spain - Horse Races

August 26, 2015

In August for two weekends, Sanlúcar hosts a horse races during the evening’s low tide.  The official races began in 1845 when the the Sociedad de Carreras de Caballos de Sanlúcar de Barrameda was formed. The races are along a 1,800m stretch of beach at the mouth of the Río Guadalquivir.  The historical origins of the racing is that fish buyers raced the horses along the beach as they waited for trawlers to bring in their haul to the port. These races are very significant and even are part of the national series of horse events that include Madrid, San Sabastian, and Seville.  The prizes are much more than just fish now with the total prize money being between 2 and 3 million euros.  The winnings for the individual race go from a few hundred to up to 10,000 euros. The races are very different than any US horse races with the people being there on what looks like their usual family vacation days at the beach.  Just a few minutes before the race a couple police trucks go by and everybody is behind the orange fence.  Then the horses go flying by.  The race that we saw had only about 10 horses.  Just a few minutes after the races finish all the kids are back swimming in the water.  The kids also have tons of homemade betting booths where they really do take bets on the races.

Rota, Spain - Mayeteria

August 25, 2015

The Centro de Mayeteria Roteño is a small farm on the outskirts of Rota. The farm has historic structures used by the farmers from several hundred years ago. The farm’s name originates from the produce being ready for market in May instead of June when all the other farms would have produce ready.  The cultivation was all done by hand and in small plots of land.  The main parts of the farm are still used as a community garden that locals grow all sorts of fruits and vegetables.  They also have several horses, chickens, a pony and a donkey.  The donkey was very friendly and Owen thought the donkey was very funny.  The tour was by the Rota Tourism office that we also rode an open train from within the city out to the farm.  The farm also built a nice playground that Owen also loved climbing all over.  As part of the tour we made Arranque.  The basic ingredients are bread and tomatoes.  It is a somewhat acquired taste as it is also eaten with stale bread crusts.  It is a fun local food.

Puerto de Santa Maria, Spain - Bullfight August 16

August 16, 2015

On 16AUG15 I saw Sebastian Castella, who is from Beziers France, fight six bulls in Puerto de Santa Maria.  This guy started his bullfighting in 1998 and has fought in 798 bullfights (at least 1596 bulls.)  I cannot remember how many ears he earned but had a mediocre night in total.  I think the judge, who was a guy and not the usual Puerto lady, gave him credit for fighting all of the bulls.  Some interesting highlights was Castella’s cuadrilla.  He had one banderillo pull a muscle and nearly not make it past the Barrera while running form the bull.  He had another banderillo trip, but the other members of the cuadrilla distracted the bull preventing disaster.  I also have a photo of one banderillo sticking while the other bounces off the bull.  The veronica and muleta work was mostly mediocre.  He did have one bull that was entranced by the muleta, and you can see a photo of him between the muleta and the bull.  He did have six passes with the veronica in which his feet did not move.  He had one bull in which his kill was so clean that bull literally fell instantly.   This was the first corrida de toros I have seen in which one bullfighter fights all the bulls.  It was fun to see a consistent fighter face the vagaries of different bull’s personalities.  It was also possible to see each part of the fight done really well as he had so many chances over the night.  He did have one bull in which nearly everything pulled together and he got two ears on one bull.  Unfortunately this fight closes the temporada in Puerto de Santa Maria.   I have one fight in San Lucar and maybe a fight in Ronda left for this year.

Puerto de Santa Maria, Spain - Bullfight August 15

August 15, 2015

On Saturday 15AUG15 I saw a “Corrida de Rejones” in El Puerto de Santa Maria.  A Corrida de Rejones is Spanish bullfight in which all three acts occur on horseback.  This corrida was in honor of Fermin Bohorquez who according to Wikipedia is a great rejoneador from Jerez.  He got to fight two bulls and earned one ear for his first bull and nothing for his second.  Mr. Bohorquez was joined by five additional rejoneadors.  This was unique as I am used to three bullfighters fighting two bulls a piece.  In this fight, I saw seven bulls as Bohorquez got two bulls (also unique.)  My favorite fight was the third fight in which the Portuguese rejondeador Rui Fernandes showed great horseman-ship.  He cut one ear for his Faena.  Leonardo Hernandez in the fifth fight won two ears and actually had his elbow on the bulls head while riding his horse circling the bull.  You have to see the pictures to believe it is possible.
I did not know what to expect with this event.  My tickets were only 32 euros, cheaper than the other fights of the temporada.  I got a sol seat but the fight did not start until 22:00.  I do not understand Plaza de Toros business management as they did not sell too many shade seats for double the price for a 22:00 fight.  Anyhow, I would guess that the cost is much greater as each rejondeador has a stable of at least three horses (show horse for pomp, very fast and brave horse for the 1st act, very smart horse to trick the bull for the placing of the banderillas, and a very steady horse for the kill.
My favorite part of a Rejone is the horsemanship.  They had horses jumping on two legs, horses dancing back and forth in front of the bull, and horses running backwards/sideways from a charging bull.  Spanish/Portuguese equestrian art is impressive.  This being said, I prefer a traditional Spanish bull fight.  I think a man on a horse is too far from the bull for the full effect.

Naves de San Juan, Spain - Bullfight

August 8, 2015

We watched a novillada in Naves de San Juan.  This is basically a minor league bull fight.  This bull fight did utilize fully grown bulls (4-5 yrs. old) but they did not wear divisas and their pedigrees were not advertised.  I think these were less prestigious bulls, but as you can see in the pictures they were plenty tough.  Matter of fact we saw one bull get a green flag after the first act and he gets to make little bulls for the rest of his natural life (I have only seen this twice in 92 bulls.)   We also saw the third bull deliver a coronada to the torero.  The guy got dragged around the arena with a horn near his knee so I think it was a serious hit.  He showed spirit that represents the best of bull fighting and finished his bull, despite his pain, with an excellent clean kill.  The arena was in a town of 5,000 people and very small.  The ambiance was phenomenal and I felt we exhibited genuine rural Spanish bull fighting at its best.  Allison and Owen went and Owen seemed to love looking all around at all the people.